The Valle de Los Cirios
San Vicente - San Ignacio via Bahia de Los Angeles
559 miles, 22,003 feet of climbing
The Valle de Los Cirios (the valley of the cirios) is a magical place of a different variety. The cirios, also known as the Boojum tree, is a Dr. Suess-esque cactus that is found in no other place on earth. In 1980 the Valle de Los Cirios was declared a protected national area, and is slated to become an UNESCO World Heritage Site. The area is as stunning as it is remote, a mix of giant cardon cactus (endemic to Baja), cirios trees, a variety of beautiful palm trees including the magnificent Mexican Blue Fan Palm, amazing boulder formations (known as Baja’s Rock Garden), and a plethora of wild animals including pumas, bighorn sheep, deer, coyotes, eagles, hawks, and owls. The town of Cataviña, smack in the middle of the region, boasts a cheap Pepto-Bismol pink hotel, the upscale Hotel Misión Santa Maria Cataviña, a couple small cafés, and a small army of locals selling expensive gas from five-gallon containers. The closest gas stations are 76 miles to the north and 120 miles south, and many people forget to top off the tank before hitting this section of highway.
Descending into the Bahia de Los Angeles (bay of the angels) provides the tired bikepacker with another spectacular vista. The “angels” are a series of 16 islands in the middle of the bay. One of the islands is home to rattle-less rattle snakes, but since they’re a protected species you won’t be allowed to accidentally set foot on their island. The bay is also the seasonal home of a variety of whales, including orcas and whale sharks. I strongly recommend spending the night at Campo Archelon. Originally built as a sea turtle sanctuary, the Campo now rents cabins, beachfront palapas, and kayaks. The owners are very friendly and helpful, and can arrange boat trips to fish for yellowtail, cabrillo, dorado, and grouper; island visits and clam-gathering excursions; whale-watching tours (Bahia de Los Angeles is a temporary home to orcas, blue, humpback, sperm, minke, mako, and fin whales); excursions to swim with whale sharks; or a simple sightseeing adventure by boat.